Special funnel (see below)<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\nSpecial Procedures and Notes<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nRemove the oil drain bolt<\/span> using a 14mm socket for the bolt on the left side of the KLX250S. You don not need to remove the skid plate to drain the oil. <\/li>Let the oil drain out<\/span> – I like to rock the bike back and forth a little bit. I have also found that if you take the oil fill cap off, it helps the oil drain better.<\/li>Reinstall the drain bolt and crush washer.<\/span> Inspect the crush washer before re-installation – if it is damaged, replace with a new on. Torque for the drain bolt is only 11-foot lbs.<\/strong><\/li>Best advice ever:<\/em> Place a piece of paper or plastic around the oil filter cap, secure it around the circular case with a rubber band – this will protect the engine from dripping oil.<\/li>Remove the oil filter cap<\/span> using an 8mm socket. Oil will come pouring out. You can catch some of it from dripping down the plastic or paper using a ‘custom’ funnel (see photos below).<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\nA piece of coated paper and a rubber band around the oil filter housing prevents oil from running down the side of the bike<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li>A ‘custom’ funnel, made by cutting off the top of a bottle also helps direct the initial stream of oil coming out of the filter housing away from the bike and into the drain pan<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n Remove the oil filter, mind the little spring that pushes the oil filter out (away from the engine). Do not lose this spring.<\/li> Let oil drain out of the filter housing and then replace with a new filter. There\u2019s a black grommet in the center of the filter that needs to face out toward you. The rubber grommet seats into the protrusion on the inside of the filter cap (that you removed). I lube up the rubber grommet with a little bit of oil.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n The spring must be placed correctly inside the oil filter housing before placing the oil filter back in. To hold the spring in place, some recommend using a little grease to stick it in position – this hasn’t worked for me. Instead, I used a pair of needle nose pliers to slightly bend out and increase the diameter (just so slightly) the last winding of the spring. This allows it to hold itself in position between the protrusions on the inside face of the oil filter housing. <\/li> Replace the filter and cover (the two should be attached to each other). There are little holes guiding oil through the filter cover that should align with holes in the filter housing – everything should line up. <\/li> Tighten the filter cover using a small 8mm wrench or 1\/4-inch ratchet. These bolts should be ‘snug’ – not too tight!<\/li> Refill the engine oil. The 2009 KLX250S takes 1.5 liters of oil. 10W-40 oil is recommended.<\/li> Start the bike up and check for leaks. Let it warm up and then turn the bike off. After a few minutes check the oil level in the site glass on the left side of the bike near the shift lever. Oil should be between the two marks on the site glass. Top off as needed. <\/li><\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"This post provides just a few notes from my experience changing the oil on the 2017 Honda Africa Twin (CRF1000L),
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